One of my favourite things to do in the early mornings, when it’s not yet super hot in this record summer-now autumn-heat in NSW, is to walk along part of the Coastal Walk from Bondi to Bronte beach and back again. There’s nothing quite like walking with the sound of the ocean in your ears and smell of salt in the air! Not to mention the view is pretty amazing, and if I ever feel the urge to rest my legs and laze about in the sweet sandy goodness of Sydney’s Eastern Beaches (um, always), I totally can.
Until this weekend I’d only ventured as far as Bronte, the halfway mark, mostly due to time constraints or general laziness even when I did have the time. (It’s about an hour of walking there and back). This time I made it all the way to Coogee.
So what can you expect on the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk? Besides the obvious attraction of beach hopping, you’ll get in a bit of a workout (there are quite a few hills and steep stairs in some parts) and as I’ve said before, those spectacular views. The entire walk is just about 6km, and even if you don’t plan on doing the whole thing in one go you’ll probably want to make a day of it so you can stop for a little break at each beach you visit, and maybe for lunch, dins or an ice cold beverage to keep you cool while you’re out under the sun.
Side note: You should also prepare yourself to see people in various states of dress (and undress.. I don’t think it’s possible to un-see someone jogging in a Speedo), people running, people walking dogs, ladies in comically large hats, and other camera-toting tourists besides yourself. But it’s all part of the experience. Oh, and definitely spackle on that sunscreen.
Where to begin? Bondi is a safe bet.
If you start in Bondi, as most tend to do, follow the footpath heading east from the beach up to the prestigious swimming club Bondi Icebergs. (You can get to Bondi by hopping on the 333 bus to Campbell Parade and from there it’s a short walk to the beach unless you get distracted by the many shops and restaurants along the way). Heaps of people will head along the street adjacent to the Icebergs building to begin their coastal journey, but it’s a little known fact that you can take the ramp down underneath the terrace to get a glimpse of the Icebergs pool and restaurant. It’s not just for members! At least, not that part of the club anyway. You’re welcome.
Next up, Tamarama (aka “Tama”, aka “Glamarama”)
… aka your first stop. On the way here and onwards from Bronte you’ll be walking along winding, craggy sandstone cliffs that — fun fact! — once connected Australia to Antartica over 300 million years ago. It’s also along this stretch that the Bondi’s Sculptures By the Sea event takes place in the Spring.
Take a break at Bronte
You’re halfway there when you hit Bronte beach. You’ll notice the walk from here to Coogee is much less busy than the first half of the walk. Possibly in part by the fact that there’s only a small, very easy to miss sign at Bronte that points you to where the footpath towards Coogee begins, which is actually up the road towards the car park and NOT towards the ocean pool, as nice as it is.
If you want to stop here you sure can, no one’s judging, though you will miss seeing the ginormous grounds of Waverley Cemetery, which contains the graves of many important historical figures in Australia (the country’s first Prime Minister is one of said many) and over 200 war graves from past conflicts. It’s also around here that you can spot whales while they’re migrating in the months of May to November. It’s not called New South W(h)ales for nothing. Har har.
Or keep going to Clovelly
Down the rocky footpath towards Clovelly beach there’s heaps of shrubs and bushes about, some with pretty flowers. But be careful about sticking your hands out to touch them! I saw about ten medium-sized, scary-looking spiders just chilling in their webs in-between the leaves. And by chilling, I mean probably waiting for unsuspecting tourists to get close to take their picture… Which, BTW, I have none of for obvious reasons.
Find the trail at Gordon’s Bay
Past Clovelly Beach and all the spiders and you’ll come across Gordon’s Bay. It’s a favourite snorkelling and diving spot amongst Sydney locals with an underwater “nature trail” you can follow. I didn’t get a chance to check it out on this trip, but hopefully soon I’ll get in the water!
Finally, Coogee
There are some steep footpaths and steps you have to take before you finally make it to Coogee, but it’s totally worth the trek. Especially if you stop for a drink at Coogee Pavilion to celebrate your crossing of the proverbial finish line. That is unless you’re some kind of superhuman (or perhaps a cyborg or robot) up for even more walking, in which case you can keep heading north towards Maroubra. For the rest of us, though, this is a pretty good place to end it!
-C
