Very unlike finding a needle in a haystack, you shouldn’t have a problem finding one of the three tanneries located in the souks of Fes. Just follow your nose until you reach a point where the air smells a bit like rotting meat (don’t ask how I know what rotting meat smells like, long story), the inside of someone’s sweaty armpit, and an old dirty diaper that’s been sitting in the sun for a bit too long.
Sound appetising yet? I thought so. Now head straight towards it. You know you’re going in the right direction if it gets worse. After following my nose I ended up at the Chouara Tannery.
When you get there you should have no trouble finding yourself a guide to lead you up the flights of steep, small stairs (all through various shops that sell the leather goods that are cured and dyed in the tannery, but I’ll get to that in a minute) until you reach a terrace overlooking the many, many vats of dye in the tannery, and drying leather hides on the rooftops below.
On our way up we saw people selling sprigs of mint to the big tour groups passing through and wondered what that was all about. WELL. As it turns out, you’re advised to hold the mint in front of your nose to counter the incredibly strong stench wafting up from the leather that’s been soaking for days in the vats. Smell or no smell, the comings and goings in the Chouara Tannery were certainly cool to watch.
They use limestone and pigeon poop — yes, poop — to clean the hides of any hairs and soften the hides before they begin the dyeing process, which typically means they will leave the cured leathers in a vat of dye for about three days before taking them out to dry. It’s certainly a smelly process.
The view of the rooftops from the tannery isn’t so bad either.
Of course on your way back down to the streets you will be expected to at least pretend to look at the merchandise in all the shops you pass through. Leather jackets, bags, shoes and boots, belts, hats and all kinds of leather accessories are there to buy, if you want them.
Thankfully we didn’t encounter any pushy vendors here. Instead we met only friendly people, and one man was kind enough to show us how they make rugs using a loom and threads dyed in the vats of the tannery as well as by hand.
Of course, back in the souks, that’s another story altogether. We ventured into a shop full of spices, herbs, powdered dyes and perfumes without the intent to buy anything and yet somehow I left with a small bottle of perfume (I did some serious bartering though.. so I guess that makes it okay?).
The same thing happened in a rug shop we visited. My friend left only after buying not one but two rugs there.
We ended the day with an early dinner at one of the restaurants in the medina. The majority of these places offer rooftop patios with decent views of Fes so make sure you ask to go upstairs when you get inside.
We only spend a few days in Fes, but I already miss it. There are so many things to see and do… and of course smell, if you decide to check out the tannery. Definitely a place I won’t soon forget!
-C
