Hola from South America!!
I’m still in Ecuador today but my schedule isn’t so jam-packed this afternoon and tomorrow so I’ve got some more time to share my thoughts and photos from the time I spent in Medellín, Colombia. I was there for the wedding of a family friend but I had time for some sightseeing before and after the festivities. If you’re on the fence about traveling to Medellín in the near or far future I highly recommend it. It’s very safe, the locals are friendly and there’s a lot to do and see in and around the city (though I’d also recommend you brush up on your Spanish first). I will be headed back there for a couple days next week before moving on to Cartagena and then Panama so there will be more to come on that topic, as well as everything I’ve seen in Ecuador so far.
Here’s a not-so-little overview of what I found while I was there:
Safety
First and foremost, when people hear of Medellín they’ll likely think of drugs, (or maybe Entourage.. points to anyone who gets the reference). And it is true that about twenty years ago the city was a haven for warring drug cartels and their thugs. However, I learned that the city government has been working for years now to rebuild Medellín as a center for growth, economic activity and education. They’ve begun to ramp up their tourism industry also, though the only tourists I could see there were the others there with me for the wedding!
Despite all that I felt very safe exploring in the city, though I wouldn’t do it alone… which I wouldn’t do anywhere I’m not fluent in the local language anyway. Group tours are the way to go here, unless you’re fortunate enough to know someone from the area, in which case I say cab it.
The People
While most locals don’t speak much English, like I said, they are incredibly friendly people. Everyone you meet will tell you good morning/afternoon/night, including strangers on the street. It’s a nice change from Toronto and some other cities in North America where doing the same will just get you a funny look.
Most will try to help you with directions and understanding words or phrases if you ask. “Cómo se dice [blah] en español” was a phrase I used often, where blah might be me pointing at something or attempting to play charades. Most of the time they understood and I learned a new word to add to my Spanish vocabulary!
The Food
Empanadas made with corn or plantain as well as fresh fruits and tomato juice are a common snack in the streets and in abundance anywhere you go. So is bocadillo, a guava jelly you can buy in big squares and eat as is (I did, not bad but I don’t think that’s the way you’re intended to) or with cheese and crackers.
My favourite meal was the bandeja paisa, a stew made with shredded beef, plantains, corn, fried egg, potatoes and beans, typically served with rice and arepas on the side or a salad. If it sounds like a lot of food, it is. Perfect after exploring all day with only a teeny empanada and coconut water for lunch. Unless you have a huge appetite I would share with someone. Good luck finishing it otherwise!
Of course you can’t mention Colombian cuisine without talking about their coffee. I don’t drink much of it at home so I can’t speak to how it compares to the stuff we get in Toronto, but my travel companions thought it was awesome. I’m inclined to agree — it tasted great, even black.
As far as alcoholic bevvys go, the drink of choice for the locals is aguardiente, a clear alcohol made from processed sugar cane and flavoured with anise so it has a bit of a black liquorice flavour. Aguardiente roughly translates to “fire water”, and with good reason. It’s strong stuff. When drinking to celebrate (things like weddings, birthdays, Friday nights or maybe just nights out in general), Colombians will typically take it alone as a shot. Or two or ten. I had a few at the wedding and may have regretted it both during and after the fact.
The Nightlife
Speaking of celebrating and nights out, I spent a couple evenings in Parque Lleras because it was in close proximity to the hotel where everyone was staying for the wedding and, well, that’s where everyone wanted to go for dinner and drinks. There are plenty of restaurants, bars, and clubs in the area and it was busy every night we went. The city closes off the surrounding streets to traffic and most places have their tables spread outside with sidewalk patios. It was a great place for people watching and bar hopping. Maybe a little touristy too with most venues showing football games on their TVs (as in American football). Requesting a channel with hockey was met with blank stares.
Side note: those Colombians love to dance! I’d never been much for salsa or merengue but it’s hard not to at least try when you’re in a place where everyone gets up to dance when they turn the music up. A little fire water helps too.
Things to see and do
So what did I do in Medellín? Well, I took a taxi to Parque de los Pies Descalzos (Barefoot Park), which is part foot massage, part zen garden and part waterpark. Nearby is an interactive museum on green energy and the headquarters of the major utilities provider for the region.
I also spent some time in Plaza Botero to check out the famous sculptures by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, followed by a ride on Medellín’s Metro, the city’s public transport system of above-ground electric trains, and more recently, cable cars. I took the Metrocable up to the neighbourhood of Santa Domingo for a short walk to check out the library and some freshly made empanadas. Yum.
Other fun places I visited included a Medieval style castle museum aptly named Museo El Castillo, Parque de Los Deseos (Park of Wishes), an open area with a focus on science and astronomy with a sundial, giant moon sculptures and a planetarium.
BBL Medellín!
-C
